Shop
Accessories-> 
AF9 Gauges 
Ball Joints-> 
Big Brake Kits 
Fuel Lines 
Fuses 
Injector Seals 
Odometer Gears 
Power Steering-> 
Reupholstery Kits 
Shift Boots 
Vinyl Decals 

Search
 

Company Information
About Us
Conditions of Use
Contact Us
Message Board
Shipping & Returns
Terms of Service
Testimonials
Your Privacy

944 Motor Mount Replacement

To Remove the Motor Mounts on a 944 (as posted on the Rennlist.com forums)

Remove the Air box/air flow meter. (10mm, Slot-head screwdriver)

Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels (19mm socket)

Jack up the front or the entire car and place it on jack stands. (Hydraulic jack, 2-4 jack stands)

Remove the front wheels. (19mm socket)

Remove the lower engine shield. (10mm socket)

Find a way to support the engine with the supplies that you have. During this maintenance you will be removing the cross-member which holds the engine in place. I used two hydraulic jacks. One under the bell housing by the starter and another under the oil pan. I also used a piece large piece of hardwood between the oil pan and the jack to disperse the load. You should be careful with the cast aluminum construction of the oil pan.

Remove the sway bar mounting brackets at the frame connection point. (13mm socket)

Remove the nut holding the power steering line directly above the inside front of the A-arm. (10mm socket)

Separate the A-arms from the body by removing the front bolt connected through the cross-member and the two rear bolts connected to the frame. Use a scribe to mark the location of the rear mounting points for reinstallation. (19mm socket, 17mm socket)

Move the A-arm assembly down and out of the way to expose the lower nut of the motor mount.

Remove the lower nut off the motor mount. (17mm socket)

Remove the top bolts, 2 each side, holding the motor mounts to the engine. On the right side you will probably have to use a wrench. On the left side you can get to the bolts from the top with a long extension through the space where the airbox was. The old style motor mounts used a nut/bolt arrangement which may be a bit harder to get apart than the newer style which uses a bolt only. (13mm socket, 13mm wrench)

Remove the 4 bolts, 2 each side, holding the cross-member to the frame. Be careful with the power steering line on the right side and the steering shaft linkage on the left. Some people prefer to leave the cross-member dangling by the four bolts and prying the new mounts up and in. I tried it that way but found that it was far to much hassle. (19mm socket)

Remove the motor mounts from the cross-member. The "update" mount actually pack themselves into the cross-member frame by inserting the flat rubber lip into the upper-outermost lip of the cross-member.

Now you are ready to install the new mounts. Make sure if you are changing from the old style mount to the "update" mount that you purchase the shorter bolts and thinner washers. You can buy them using part numbers 900.378.024.02 and N.015.401.3 or just go to the local hardware store and get standard metric thread 8mm x 40mm long hardened 8.8 bolts and matching washers. I did the latter which cost me a whole $3 at ACE Hardware. It is also a good idea to pre-thread all your new bolt and nut fittings on the new mounts for ease of installation.

When installing the new mounts, be sure to set them into the cross-member first. This ensures that the flat rubber lip is in the right position prior to lifting the cross-member back up to the frame. Having a partner help at this point is a very good idea. It can be quite challenging to get the cross-member bolts started into the frame again.

Before getting the cross-member bolts snugged up to the frame you will want to start the top motor mount bolts. No need to tighten them until the cross-member is bolted up completely. I did not find any use for wedges or pry-bars as some may suggest.

Assembly from this point is pretty much the reverse of removal. Be sure to line up the rear mounts of the A-arms to the scribe marks you made earlier. This should keep you from having to get the alignment adjusted.

If your like me and put this maintenance off for a while, you will regret doing so. It's not that hard and it makes a huge difference in the cars performance and overall "fun to drive" factor.

Oh yeah, don't forget to hook the electrical connector back on the Air flow meter. Car will start very rough and you will not be able to accelerate. No air = No go. Trust me :-(

This is what I did...you may have different experiences...that is what makes being a Human Being so cool. The subject vehicle was a 1986 944 na. Please let me know if this procedure is in error or if you have anything to add. Good luck:-)

NOTE: The tutorials section is designed to be used as a guide when working on your Porsche 944. Most of the entries here are written by 944 owners much like yourself with nothing but experience to guide them. None of the procedures listed below are specifically approved by Porsche unless otherwise stated on there header. For the protection of the helpful people who put these tutorials together and the protection of Rennbay inc. , we must suggest that you consult your authorized Porsche mechanic before attempting any of the procedures listed below. If you have made a tutorial that you think might be of help to others in the 944 community please feel free to submit it to tutorials@rennbay.com .

Already place an order?
Track your order.
Use My Account to change your personal settings.

  Shipping and Returns
Our Shipping Rates & Policies.
View our Returns Policy.
  Need Help?
Lost your password? Click here.
Visit the Customer Serivice desk.

Home | Shop Online | About Us | Contact Us | View Cart | Checkout | My Account| Frequent Asked Questions | Log Off

Copyright 2005 Rennbay.com, Inc.
An OLDE Media Creation